![]() ![]() “I think the ultimate lesson we’ve learned is that you have to make good products to begin with. ![]() The ability to both improve the initial design process, and take responsibility for its products, are a big part of resale’s appeal for Eileen Fisher, which launched its resale programme Renew in 2009, the first from a major fashion brand. “The production of new apparel has real environmental impacts, and while we are working tirelessly to reduce these impacts through material and supply chain innovation, we know the best thing we can do is make less new,” says Asha Agrawal, managing director of Tin Shed Ventures and Corporate Development at Patagonia, Inc. Patagonia offers a possible exception to that, saying it is “absolutely” a goal for its resale platform Worn Wear to replace future production of new products and that it’s aligning the organisation and resale growth targets with that goal in mind. The latter might be the single biggest metric for determining the environmental benefits of resale, but that’s not something anyone tracks at industry level and, if there are brands that do track it internally, they don’t share it readily. In addition to all the variables that contribute to a garment’s individual footprint, such as how far it was shipped or how much cleaning it needed, whether consumers treat resale shopping as a direct replacement for purchases of new clothes, or the extent to which brands plan to make fewer new products if their resale channel grows strongly enough, is not readily available information. However, calculating the overall sustainability impacts of a resale programme is nearly impossible. ![]() “If you have something that's going to take years, if not decades, in terms of looking at the production side versus something that you can do today, resale is a no-brainer.” “When you think about the fact that about 70 per cent of emissions come from creating and consuming an item, and then layer on how complicated it is to reinvent supply chains, resale is a proven ready-to-go, scalable solution to mitigate fashion’s footprint,” says Sommer of The RealReal. When consumers shop resale instead of new, the immediate benefits are clear. “For me, it has to be: are brands changing behaviour? And, I unfortunately think we're just a little too early for it to be strategic,” says Bassett. ![]()
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